March 25, 2013

Sew: Simplicity 1802 in Gridlock



Well, it's been a long time between finished items around here. I've been steadily working on my Tessuti Gridlock Competition entry. I took my time with the fitting and flat piping. I am so glad I did since I think this dress might be my proudest hand made item to date.

Let's take a look...



 
Look at that fit!!


And just a few more...



Now for the finer details...


 Copious amounts of basting and piping were done...


And even a handpicked zipper! My first ever.


The inside is beautiful too, with a lined bodice and bound armholes.


I used Simplicity 1802 for the basis of this dress and simply altered the skirt (as shown below). I didn't like the look of the skirt in the pattern and certainly didn't think the fabric would work for it.


The colour of the fabric is quite interesting. It can appear quite light and almost a lilac purple-blue in some lights but dark blue in other lights. I really wanted to work on the dark blue to suit my colouring so I paired it with a dark royal blue ponte for the piping to bring out the desired colour and shade. It is so very much my colour and I'd forgotten how much I love it.

Project Details
Pattern: Simplicity 1802, size 16
Fabric: Gridlock from Tessuti, dark royal blue ponte & blue gold-liner lining from Clegs
Alterations: Self- drafted a flared skirt using the pattern piece as guidance, lengthened skirt by 10cm


 
I was hesitant to use this pattern as it doesn't have many reviews and the few that are available are not very flattering. Despite my better judgement, I decided to take the plunge and use it anyway. I'd purchased 4 metres of fabric as I didn't have a plan, so I had plenty if this didn't work. I cut the bodice out first and basted all the pieces together (without the piping) to achieve the fit I wanted. I then trimmed the seams to 1.5cm and unpicked the basting before inserting all the flat piping by basting it all again. I unpicked sections and re-basted until I got the piping relatively even, before finally stitching all the seams. The fabric was quite thick and the seams required careful grading and a good press for a nice finish. There was no way an invisible zip was going to work with all that thickness at the joins, so I did my first ever handpicked zipper. It was an absolute pleasure to sew! I can't believe how much I enjoyed it.

I am so ridiculously excited about this dress. I took my time to address what I wanted out of this fabric and challenge. I pushed my boundaries and went out of my comfort zone. I took the long and proper way instead of taking the quickest and easiest route. I finally enjoyed the process of slow and steady sewing. It was good to slow down.

One more photo to show the big grin that this dress induces!




L x

31 comments:

  1. Congratulations. You have done an amazing job and your sewing is fantastic. Good decision to not follow the skirt in the pattern.

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  2. That is really beautiful work! That bodice is amazing.

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  3. I'm so glad you opted for no sleeves - it is gorgeous, and you look amazing in it! Fantastic - I have my fingers crossed for you!

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  4. It's more than a bit awesome! Love the piping detail on the bodice - and the matching lining :) You look lovely!

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  5. You have every right to be grinning and incredibly proud! It looks fantastic - and yes, that fit is perfect. So worth the time you spent on it. Love it!

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  6. That smile says it all - you have nailed this one perfectly!!!

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  7. This is a really special dress. Well done!

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  8. Look at that fantastic piping! Nice work.

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  9. It's beautiful! That colour is so flattering on you, and the fit is perfect!

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  10. Your dress is completely stunning! It's a work of art. And that color looks fabulous on you. I hope my skills reach that level someday soon. Enjoy it!

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  11. Gorgeous and that piping is perfection.

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  12. well done! this dress is a lot of work, which is probably why I haven't taken it out of the enveloppe since I bought it last august :) I too have been worried about the very few reviews, but I'm really attracted by the bodice. You've had a great idea in changing the skirt, I was also wondering how it would look like with these large godets.
    I surely refer to your blog once I get started on this dress, so manay thanks for the detailed review!

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  13. What a sensational dress and a great use of the fabric!

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  14. Oh my gosh! This is beautiful! Stunning job. That fit is wonderous, and the inside is just as beautiful as the out! I absolutely adore it. Your decision on the bottom of the skirt was definitely a good choice. I may have to make one of these myself now!

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  15. WOW! that is one awesome frock Leith!

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  16. Fabulous dress. The piping really sets it off.

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  17. I agree with not following the skirt in the pattern. The bodice is lovely, but the skirt not so much. The skirt you have used is a much better choice. I love the dress that you have made, the piping is just perfect. Well done!

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  18. Great modifications, that skirt really suits the fabric. Good on you!

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  19. This is beautiful. The piping on the bodice is just stunning.

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  20. Wow, its a great dress Leith and it suits you!
    Love the piping, its a nice touch. :)

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  21. Absolutely stunning! That bodice is very flattering, and I LOVE that fabric!
    Lauren x

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  22. Your dress is gorgeous. Great details and so professional looking I love it!

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  23. It's so flattering and it's a classic style ... so many years worth from that gorgeous dress! Congrats and fingers crossed for you! :)

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  24. Such a gorgeous dress! Love the piping... I am STILL working on my Tessuti project. It just seems to go on forever this one!!! It's odd fabric isn't it? Not just pressing friendly. It's not that it burns or singes - it just doesn't want to crease!

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  25. Wow! I just love it. The colour, fit and workmanship look perfect. I hope you win. Your skirt looks much better than the pattern version.

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  26. Stunning! The bodice is so perfectly fitted, and beautifully matched at the seams, just awesome. I like your skirt so much more that the fussy looking thing on the envelope. What an incredible dress. Wow.

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  27. omg - flipping gorgeous. I am steeling myself to start out on my dressmaking adventure and can only dream to make something as lovely

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  28. I suspect one of those unflattering reviews was mine, hehe ;-) I'm glad you basted the bodice & got such a fantastic fit, well done. This pattern certainly beat me but I'm excited to see your amazing version. Good thinking to swap out the skirt, there is enough going on with that gorgeous fabric & your prefect piping xx

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  29. Oh wow. This style, print and colour are absolutely beautiful on you. Love the piping. You seem to be one of the rare few that got this one to work-awesomely.

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  30. This is amazing! I've always wondered if that pattern would work but I think the skirt on the envelope always threw me off. I love it and I think it was genius to swap out the skirt. The flat piping is awesome. I can tell you took your time with this dress and it was well worth worth it. Beautiful!

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